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Frequently Asked Questions
What is a Sewing Notion?
Advice on buying fabric?
Advice on buying a sewing machine?
Do you have make-up classes?
Do I need to prewash the fabric?
Do students supply their own thread?
Q: What is a Sewing Notion?
A. Sewing notions are tools and objects used to complete a sewing project. Notions range from elastic, ribbons, needles/pins to interfacing, buttons, stuffing and more.
Examples and FAQ's regarding notions:
CORDING: For the Notions Bag and Sewing Pack you will need cording for the "Strings". You can either purchase cording from the bolt (3mm to 5mm) and have it cut at the cutting counter, OR you can purchase pre-packaged Paracord from the jewelry section of your local fabric store. While both work well, you'll find that there are significantly more color choices in the paracord. If selecting cord on the bolt, please purchase cording that you would typically see in a string backpack and avoid cord that is too thick or is loosely woven as the ends will shred easier. (As of April 2023, Paracord is approx. $3 per package)
RIBBON: For our projects we will be using GROSGRAIN ribbon. Grosgrain ribbon in the kind that has distinctive horizonal ribbing across the ribbon. It is more durable than a smooth satin ribbon. We only use approx. 12" of 1-inch grosgrain ribbon for the sewing pack, and about 30" of 1/4 to 3/8-inch grosgrain ribbon for the Cool Cat Pillow so try to buy the shortage yardage spool you can.
ELASTIC: **Don't forget the elastic!** This is the one items on students shopping lists that gets overlooked the most.
Elastic comes in many widths and thicknesses. Make sure you pay attention to the size specified for your project. You can usually find packages of elastic in the same area as the buttons. For Level 1, we use elastic in the Simple Skirt, Pajama Pants and the Peasant Blouse.
Elastic Recommendations: Purchase by the package, not cut from a bulk roll. (As of April 2023, a 3yd package of 3/4" non-roll elastic is approx. $4.99 per package, 1" is approx. $6.50, 1/4" is approx. $4.
INTERFACING: A moderately stiff material typically used between two layers of fabric to create strength and stability to the project. NOTE: FUSIBLE INTERFACING has heat activated adhesive on one side that bonds to the fabric when ironed. We will use FUSIBLE INTERFACING in class, not the sew-in kind. Interfacing is typically found on a rack near the cutting counter of your local craft store.
Fusible Fleece Recommendation: Pellon TP971F Fusing Thermolam Plus Fleece 45" Wide (As of April 2023, approx. $12/yd).
Interfacing Recommendation: Pellon SF101 Shape Flex Fusible Interfacing or similar (As of April 2023, Shape Flex is approx. $7.49 per yard) Please note that most lightweight interfacings are only 20" wide compared to fabric that are typically 40" wide.
STUFFING / POLY-FIL: M5 purchases/supplies poly-fil in bulk for students to use in the Cool-Cat, Diggity Dog and Elle-Fun pillows. Buying in bulk helps bring the cost down to about $5 per pound vs. $9 per pound if purchased individually. This cost is included in your registration fee. If students are making extra projects that require additional stuffing, I do ask that they supply their own stuffing or purchase it from me at cost (subject to availability). This guarantees that I have enough for other students and helps keep registration fees to a minimum. (As of April 2023, Poly-fil ranges from $8 per 12oz bag to $15 per 16oz bag).
ZIPPERS: For any project that requires zippers, please select a standard "All Purpose Plastic Zipper". Steer clear of metal or specialty zippers. (As of April 2023, zippers range from $3 to $4 depending on length. Zippers are typically located near the cutting counter of your local craft store near the thread.
BUTTONS: Buttons come in many different shapes and styles, but for our purposes we will use the basic FLAT button that is generally plastic with 2 to 4 sew-through holes. DO NOT buy SHANK buttons that have the single hole on the bottom of the button. When purchasing, pay attention to the size and quantity specified. M5 DOES NOT have buttons on hand for purchase, you must supply your own!
Q: Do you have advice on buying fabric?
Where to shop: We are very fortunate to have a lot of fabric retailers in our area. Joann Fabrics, Hobby Lobby and even Quilted Treasures, which is located right here in Rogers. Whichever store you choose, make sure to take advantage of mailers, apps and coupons. Joann Fabrics almost always has coupons. Michaels does not carry much fabric, if any, so I'll save you some time and tell you to shop for fabric elsewhere.
- Joann Fabrics: Great coupons on the app and has distinctive 'collections' that offer different price points and categories. Their fabric is typically separated by "collection" so it's easier to navigate higher vs. lower quality fabrics.
- Hobby Lobby: Hobby Lobby is considered more of a home decor store than a fabric store. While they do carry fabric and some notions, their selection is smaller and quite a bit less organized than Joann's. But still a great place to shop!
- Quilted Treasures in Rogers (Or any quilt or stand-alone fabric store): If you haven't been to Quilted Treasures, I highly recommend it! Even just to have a look around at their beautiful samples and displays. You cannot beat the quality of fabric from a quilt store. Higher quality of course means slightly higher prices but depending on what you are making the extra quality might be worth considering. For example, quilt stores carry the highest quality of flannel, making it a great option to purchase fabric that will outlast the competitions best flannel. They don't, however, carry a lot of the notions that may be required to complete your project. If you go to QT, tell them Kelly Scharber sent you :-)
What to buy:
- Price Point: When it comes to fabric, it is definitely priced based when it comes to quality. That $5.99/yd fabric may look like a steal, but it might also be harder to work with, shreds easier and might not last past a few washes. This may not matter as much with the Cool Cat Pillow, but you will probably wash/wear the PJ pants more often, so quality will matter in this case. Also, and this is VERY important, cheaper fabric might not be as wide as a regular priced fabric. We run into trouble quite often with the Simple Skirt pattern where the size large needs every square inch of fabric width. Most of our patterns call for 42" wide fabric. In order to make the fabric appear less expensive, some retailers shrink the width and that ends up causing a variety of sizing issues. I'm certainly not asking you to buy the most expensive fabric! Just be mindful of the quality when you are shopping, and price point is sometimes a good indicator of quality. Feel free to unwind a little of the fabric from the bolt, feel it, hold it up to the light, etc.
- Buy what the pattern calls for: Projects for Level 1 only require cotton and optional flannel fabrics. Level 2 calls for cotton, knits and optional lightweight denim. If the project calls for cotton, buy cotton. Do not buy minky, cuddle, fleece, silks, satins, Lycra, sequins, velvet, etc. We will NOT be able to use it in class and you might not be able to return it.
- What to avoid:
- Metallic or holographic foil embossed fabrics: Those shiny holographic butterflies are adorable, but they will melt and smear the second the iron touches them.
- Very dark or overly patterned fabrics, especially when starting out. We do all of our pencil marking on the back side of the fabric. Go ahead and look at the back and determine whether or not it would be hard to see your pencil marks. This will save your new sewist a lot of headaches when trying to mark and follow a sewing line.
- Very light colors or fabric with eyelets for wearable projects: Make sure to think about what project the material is for. Once again, unroll a little off the bolt, put your fingers under it, hold it up to the light.... if it's for a skirt, will you able to see undergarments? This mostly applies to wearable projects.
- Avoid mixing fabric types: If your project requires more than one fabric (Simple Skirt, Cool Cat Pillow, Peasant Blouse/Nightgown) make sure to buy the same type of fabric for both. As in, don't buy a cotton fabric for the top and flannel for the bottom. They wash, wear and shrink differently over time.
Q: Do you have any advice on buying a sewing machine?
So, you are ready to buy a sewing machine... Here is my advice on figuring out the best option for your family.
Must Haves:
- Speed control!! The studio machines have the ability to turn down the speed, so not matter how hard the student pushes down on the pedal it will only go so fast. This is my #1 recommended feature on a sewing machine.
- Drop-in Bobbin: Drop-in bobbins are easier to load for beginners vs. a front-loading bobbin. And as an added bonus, you can see how full or empty your bobbin is without having to take your bobbin compartment apart.
Not a must have, but a nice sewing feature:
- Safety-wise, its a good idea to get a sewing machine that does not engage when the presser foot is in the up position. This means that the machine will not function unless the presser foot in in the down position, which gives you more control and the machine won't engage if you accidently press on the foot pedal.
Good rules of thumb:
- Don't buy a KIDS sewing machine... ever... Just don't do it.... I know they are adorable, but those pint-sized machines will give you nothing but problems! I've never met a person that didn't regret buying one and wished they had invested more wisely.
- Plan to spend around $300+ minimum: I know that number can be hard to swallow, but you really do get what you pay for when it comes to sewing machines. For instance, my studio machines were about $800 new, but they are almost 20 years old and have had hundreds of kids pounding away on them for years. They were built to last. A cheaper, more plastic version would have ended up in the landfill several years ago. Cheaper machines will give you more binding issues, thread breakage, tension problems, etc. If a machine is constantly needing fixing or re-threading it will just end up in a closet collecting dust. So, unless you want to end up with a really expensive paper weight, I'd suggest making as big of an investment as you can. A good machine can really last a lifetime!
Options:
M5 Studio Machines: The sewing machines that we use in the studio are made by Husqvarna Viking. The Viking Sewing Center located in many Joann's are official Husqvarna Viking dealers. Unfortunately, the model that we use in studio, the Emerald 183, was discontinued several years back and replaced with a 'dumbed down' version known as the Emerald 118. The current Emerald 118 is similar, just with a few less bells and whistles. You can often find these machines on sale at Joanns for between $500 - $599. They do offer an Emerald 116 that is less expensive but does not have speed control. These machines are built to last! And when you buy from Viking Sewing Center, they offer free start up classes! You can purchase a used Emerald 183 (the ones we use in the studio) on Ebay for around $300. Just keep in mind that if it ends up needing repairs, it will cost you around $100-$120 just to have it tuned up! So, factor tune ups and repairs into your used sewing machine budget.
Brother Sewing Machines: I have had several students purchase a Brother brand sewing machine that has all of the same features as my Emerald 183's. I wish I could give you a specific model number, but it seems that they are constantly switching up the model numbers. Just stick to that rule of thumb that the $300 to $400 dollar range will be worth your investment. Joanns does sell some of these models on their shelves and are often on sale.
Used:
You can always find decent sewing machines on Ebay, Marketplace or even in Grandma's closet collecting dust! Older machines are often sturdier and can be a great option. Just make sure to do your research... Look up old reviews, find out why it was discontinued, find out how available parts are. And keep in mind that if it ends up needing repairs, it will cost you around $100-$120 just to bring it in for tune ups and repairs! So, factor tune ups and repairs into your used sewing machine budget. I HIGHLY recommend spending the money to have a used one tuned up before using it. Machines that have sat for a while will need to be oiled and cleaned to avoid incurring damage.
Q. Should I pre-wash my fabrics?
A. Yes... and no.... ??
Technically, YES, you should wash, dry and IRON your fabrics before bringing them to class. There are many benefits to working with washed/dried/ironed fabrics: Prewashing prevents colors from bleeding and decreases shrinking around 5%. This ensures a better, longer lasting fit. Also, there are a LOT of chemicals in unwashed fabrics that can get transferred onto your students' hands and released into the air when ironing. That funny smell you smell when ironing unwashed fabric? That's probably Formaldehyde.
But.... If you don't have time to complete the washing, drying AND IRONING before class it is OK to send it unwashed. I used to require that all fabric be washed and prepped before class, but I noticed a few things: 1) A lot of families were purchasing the day of class so there wasn't sufficient time -or- 2) It was washed but wasn't ironed so we had to spend 1/2 of our class time ironing. For older students that are able to iron their own fabric it isn't as big of a deal, but for younger students that means that I will be ironing it myself which not only means a lot of downtime for the student but also takes away from the other students in class. I don't want sewing class to cause any extra stress, so I let up on the pre-washing requirements to make life easier for families. That being said, it IS best to wash, but I promise there is NO judgment if you can't make it happen. Just do the best you can. All I ask is that if you do wash, please iron it thoroughly prior to class. Ideally pressed in half with the selvedge edges lined up which is how it was folded when you bought it off the bolt.
Q: Do students need to supply their own thread?
M5 Farmhouse supplies white thread for all projects. If you would prefer matching thread, feel free to bring in your own. I recommend an all-purpose thread such as Coats & Clark Dual Duty All Purpose Thread. One 400-yard spool should be enough for any KCS project.
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